If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh in Scotland, you’re bound to pass the famous Royal Mile at some point. It crosses Old Town from east to west, from Holyrood House to Edinburgh Castle, and is packed with wonders to discover along the way.
Here’s a list of our tips on everything you can discover there, with photos of course.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Visit the Royal Mile: map
Is the Royal Mile worth it?
Definitely yes. The Royal Mile is a must. We count it among the top 3 things to do in Edinburgh. Geographically first, because it crosses the Old Town from east to west over a distance of 1 mile, hence its name. And historically, because every nook and cranny tells a piece of Scottish history.
We’ve walked up it from Holyrood House to Edinburgh Castle, but you can choose to walk down it in the opposite direction. Either way, you’re bound to come across it during your stay. The Royal Mile is divided into 6 sections, each with a different name: Abbey Strand, Canongate, High Street, Parliament Square, Lawmarket and Castle Hill.
Map
Here’s a map of Edinburgh to help you find your way: (coming soon)
Where to stay on the Royal Mile?
If you want to establish your base in the heart of Old Town, sleeping on the Royal Mile is an excellent option. You can also decide to spend just one night there, just for the experience. We’ve picked out 2 great places to stay:
- The Witchery by the Castle Hotel – See prices, photos and availability
- The Inn on the Mile Hotel – See prices, photos and availability
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1. Abbey Strand
Abbey Strand is the eastern end of the Royal Mile. It’s a very short street leading to Holyrood House.
Holyrood House
A must-see in Edinburgh, Holyrood House is the official residence of King Charles III of Scotland. Its walls have witnessed the lives of several Scottish kings and queens, including the famous Mary Stuart. They have also been the scene of a series of assassinations, including that of her favorite, David Riccio. A macabre chain of events that cost the Queen of Scots her life.
An audio tour took us through the royal apartments, the ruins of Holyrood Abbey (very romantic) and the vast gardens at the foot ofArthur’s Seat. The palace is packed with visitors. Tour operator buses are the first to be served, as soon as they open. It’s best to arrive an hour or two later. In any case, it’s imperative to book your ticket in advance.
See prices, photos and availability and… Make a reservation.
Scottish Parliament buiding
The Scottish Parliament building is actually located on the Canongate side of the street, but it’s from the sidewalk of Abbey Strand that you can contemplate its modern architecture, in stark contrast to that of Holyrood House, on the other side of the street. Designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, its curves of glass and steel evoke the surrounding hills.
While it’s said that the building’s charm lies more in its interior, we preferred to take advantage of the mild weather on the day of our visit to wander through the gardens, which extend out onto Horse Wynd, with its water features. If you’d like to explore the building’s architecture, a guided tour lets you learn more about its symbolism, wander its sloping corridors and enter the Debating Chamber. More details on the official website here.
2. Canongate
Canongate joins the old city gates from the traffic circle opposite Holyrood House, at the end of Abbey Strand.
Clarinda’s Tea Room
It’s already time for a break, even if tea time is still a long way off. We jumped at the chance to take part in this space-time tasting experience, which took us back to the Victorian era. Clarinda’s resembles a 19th-century doll’s house, with its floral tablecloths and tapestry, delicate porcelain, antique furniture and lace doilies.
You’ll enjoy fluffy scones, homemade cakes and a whole collection of teas. For the record, Clarinda was the muse of Scottish poet Robert Burns. Their correspondence has been widely published. Lovers of literature and poetry are in for a treat, as the Royal Mile is littered with references to local writers. More details on Clarinda’s Tea Room here.
Dunbar’s Close Garden
All along the Royal Mile, discreet porches open onto “closescloses“paved courtyards or verdant gardens. Dunbar’s Close is a garden. And what a garden! Inspired by 17th-century gardens, we loved its majestic trees, boxwood-lined geometric paths and flowerbeds.
A few benches invite contemplation. We could have stayed there for hours if a downpour had not forced us to continue our exploration of the Royal Mile. We’ll always remember Dunbar’s Close Garden for its intimate elegance, far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, much to the delight of curious strollers like ourselves.
Canongate Kirkyard and David Riccio’s grave
Surrounding Canongate Kirk Church is another lush green area, the Canongate Kirkyard. It’s a very picturesque cemetery where we discovered ancient gravestones adorned with symbolic motifs. The trees and dark old walls of the houses all around give a very romantic atmosphere to the walk.
Among the graves, we discovered the tomb of David Riccio. Murdered in 1566 at Holyrood House in dramatic circumstances, he was secretary and favorite of Mary Stuart. He remains an important figure in Scottish history. The grave is modest, set a little apart along the church wall. Can you find it?
Museum of Edinburgh
The museum is a plunge into the city’s history. You’ll recognize it by its colorful facade, which contrasts with the gray stone of the city. Inside, a collection of objects linked to Edinburgh’s past, from medieval times to the present day. Highlights include Greyfriars Bobby ‘s personal effects and, above all, the collar of this famous Skye terrier, who watched over his master’s grave until his death.
More information on the official website here.
The People’s Story Museum
You’ll recognize the museum by theclock hanging from the façade. It instantly draws the eye to this dark and impressive building. The building was once a place of administration, a court of justice and a prison. Here we discovered thesocial history of Edinburgh through the centuries. The building is a little outdated, but the exhibits are rich. They plunged us into the daily life of the working classes, from medieval guilds to the labor struggles of the 20th century.
More information on the official website here.
Chessel’s Court
Chessels’s Court is another hidden corner of the Royal Mile. You have to pass under the arcades of the building on the street to get there. For us tree-lovers, the place is magical: what we think is a huge ash tree fills almost the whole space!
But it’s also worth taking a look at the superb facades of the 18th-century mansions. In addition to their elegance, they are the stuff of legend, and are said to have played a literary role. Robert Louis Stevenson‘s novel Dr Jekyll and Mr Hide is said to have been inspired by a burglary that took place here.
Wedgwood Restaurant
More than a gourmet break, a gastronomic break. You won’t just walk into Restaurant Wedgwood; you’ll need to make a reservation. The address is prized by gourmets from near and far. Winner of a Michelin star in 2019, it is a mecca for Scottish gastronomy.
We liked the Wedgwood philosophy. It’s based on highlighting local and seasonal ingredients, preferably hand-picked by the chef himself. Paul Wedgwood, who runs this establishment with his wife Lisa, is a fervent advocate of foragingthe gathering of wild plants. Reservation here.
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3. High Street
The bottom of High Street is the edge of the old town, and this is where we start, to reach Parliamant Square.
Pub World’s End
This historic pub is a listed building. It owes its name to its outer wall, which formed part of the Flodden Wall and protected the town from English invasion in the 16th century. Outside the pub, we could see the brass cobblestones that mark the location of the old town gates.
It used to be a bakery, then a wine shop, before becoming a pub in 1719. Today, you can enjoy everything that makes a traditional Scottish pub: Fish & Chips, Steak & Ale Pie and Cullen Skink Soup. Naturally, the beer and whisky list is extensive. It appeals to tourists and locals alike. More details here.
Scottish Storytelling Centre and Hope’s Court
It’s a very old house (that of Scottish theologian John Knox), set against the contemporary architecture of the center’s newest wing. It’s also the home of Scottish culture, where you can discover the richness of the local historical heritage from an original angle, that of storytelling. Find out more here.
We wandered into Trunk’s Close, just next door, to discover a peaceful, circular courtyard, poetically sheltered by a handkerchief tree. Don’t miss this verdant interlude away from the crowds. Hope’s Court is a quiet little spot, surrounded by typical Scottish architecture and well worth the small detour.
Museum of Childhood
From the outside, the museum looks like a toy store, and indeed it is. You have to cross the colorful shelves to reach the fabulous collection of games and toys from the past. We loved going back in time in this maze of rooms and staircases, which took us back to our childhood and that of our parents, grandparents and beyond, right up to the early 19th century. You’ll discover all the playful facets of everyday life for children in those times. More information on the official website here.
Pub The Inn on the Mile
We couldn’t miss this isolated, island-like building in the middle of the Royal Mile. It’s a historic building dating back to 1923, when it was the headquarters of the British Linen Bank. There’s a small terrace on the wide stoop, ideal for a break, weather permitting. Inside, the high ceilings and rough brick walls are perfect for enjoying a craft beer during a live concert.
The establishment is also a hotel. A great place to stay on the Royal Mile! Authentic experience guaranteed. 9 elegant rooms spread over 3 floors. They are accessible only by stairs, but are very comfortably equipped.
See prices, photos and availability
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4. Parliament Square
The Real Mary King’s Close
The Real Mary King’s Close is one of Edinburgh’s star attractions. We loved immersing ourselves in this network of narrow streets and underground houses, preserved since the 17th century. The history-laden atmosphere gives a unique perspective on the city. The labyrinth of galleries (vaults) hidden beneath the cobblestones of the Royal Mile.
The guided tour immerses visitors in the daily life of the period, with captivating tales of local life, legends and epidemics. A guide dressed in period costume and speaking aloud makes for a theatrical experience, with its little moments of fright. Isn’t Scotland full of ghosts?
Reservations required: See prices, photos and availability
Saint-Giles Cathedral
St. Giles Cathedral is a landmark of the Royal Mile. Its Gothic architecture is impressive, but it’s the famous crown arrow that sets it apart. Inside, we loved the large, colorful stained glass windows, the high, majestic vaults and, above all, the impressive carved walls of the Chapelle du Chardon. The chapel is dedicated to the Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s highest honor. A highly selective order, it only has 16 members at any one time.
Statues of Adam Smith and Walter Scott
On either side of the cathedral, we noticed the statues of its two Scottish figures. Their representations are real invitations to discover Edinburgh’s cultural history and influence. Adam Smith was the father of modern economics. His contributions have had a worldwide impact. As for Walter Scott, the famous national novelist and poet, he embodies Scotland’s rich literary heritage, which we discovered a few steps further along the Royal Mile.
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5. Lawmarket
This part of the Royal Mile is bordered on both sides by a flight of steps that raises the sidewalk. In medieval times, it was a marketplace dedicated to business, hence its name.
Writers’ Museum
You have to take one of Lawmarket’s narrow passages, Lady Stair’s Close (it extends into a staircase), to find the old 17th-century building that houses the Writers’ Museum. The entrance is narrow and the door low, but the place is rich in the 3 giants of Scottish literature: Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson. We discovered manuscripts and personal objects linked to these authors. A (too) small area is also dedicated to the women of Scottish literature. Find out more here.
6. Castle Hill
This is the highest part of the Royal Mile, but for just over 100m, there’s still plenty to discover, including Edinburgh Castle.
Boswell’s Court and The Witchery by the Castle Restaurant
Below The Witchery by the Castle Hotel, we slipped into the narrow passageway that leads to Boswell’s Court, a tiny, leafy courtyard tucked into the back of Tolbooth Kirk Church. This is where the hotel’s restaurant is located. The atmosphere is incredible. The carved wooden walls and ceilings of the dining room are simply superb. Another room overlooks the garden in the spirit of an orangery. For dinner or tea, you’ll be completely out of time. Reservation here.
Outlook Tower and Camera Obscura World of Illusions
The Outlook Tower is about 30m high and offers a circular panorama of the city. It’s also a multi-level exhibition space featuring a whole range of playfuloptical illusions. Don’t forget to take photos – they’re sure to make a memorable souvenir.
At the top, in addition to a 360° view of Edinburgh’s rooftops, we found the Camera Obscura, an optical device that projects a live view of the city onto a round table. The place is a big hit with visitors, so it’s best to book in advance.
Booking here.
The Scotch Whisky Experience
If you love whisky or are simply curious about it, The Scotch Whisky Experience will take you on a journey into the world of this mythical beverage. We found that a guided tour was the best way to discover it. The tour ends with a tasting in the cellars, which houseone of the world’s largest collections of Scotch whisky. There is a choice of tour options.
Reservation here.
To complete the visit, of course, there’s the obligatory visit to The Scotch Whisky Shop, where we enjoyed a wide selection of whisky and other local goodies. But we’d advise you to have a real meal on the premises. TheAmber Restaurant offers contemporary Scottish cuisine with whisky recommendations to enhance the flavours. How about a meal with whisky?
Reservations here.
Edinburgh Castle
The pinnacle of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle dominates the city. Its dark, massive silhouette embodies centuries of Scottish history. Here we discovered, among other things, the Scottish Crown Jewels(Honours of Kingdom) and the impressive Great Hall.
Walking along the ramparts, we enjoyed spectacular views over Edinburgh and the surrounding area. You can easily see as far as the town of Leith and the North Sea rushing into the Forth Estuary. Visits to the castle are extremely popular, so book in advance on the official website hereor why not take a guided tour:
See prices, photos and availability and… Make a reservation.
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Special tips for visiting the Royal Mile?
The Royal Mile with children
The more adventurous children will certainly appreciate the dark passages along the Royal Mile, but we also recommend that you take a look:
- Find the grave of David Riccio at Canongate Kirkyard
- Immerse yourself in toy history at the Museum of Chidhood
- Play with optical illusions at Camera Obscura World of Illusions
- A little scare at Real Mary King’s Close
- A little more fear aboard the Necrobus
The Royal Mile in the rain
You’re likely to come across rain during your stay in Edinburgh – Scotland is obliged! Here’s a list of places to take refuge on the Royal Mile, even if you don’t have a reservation:
- Museum of Edinburgh
- People Story Museum
- Museum of Childhood
- Saint-Giles Cathedral
- Writers’ Museum
- The Scotch Whisky Experience
Why not take the opportunity to have a drink or a bite to eat? Here are our top spots:
- Clarinda’s tea room
- World’s End Pub
- The Inn on the Mile pub
